Is El Salvador Safe to Visit?

Practical info: arriving and clearing in From Some Tuesday

El Salvador was the easiest of them all. No forms in advance. The customs agent was literally waiting on the dock when I arrived, on 5 March 2026. I handed over my passport and was told to meet him in the office, on the hotel and marina property, in 20 minutes. Very easy.

Nobody cared about the dogs. No paperwork, and taking them ashore was fine. That was March 2026. Carry the vaccination card and a health certificate anyway. The official pet rule is on the clearing-in guide.

The Coast Guard issued the temporary permit the same day, valid for 30 days. We left on 2 April 2026 at 14:40, two people, destination French Polynesia. That was 28 days. Keep the zarpe. French Polynesia used ours as proof of the date the pugs left, and recorded the departure from Bahía del Sol on 2 April.

We don’t remember the other fees. The published Coast Guard figures are US$30 per 30 days for the permit, up to 90 days, and US$40 for the zarpe on a recreational boat of 1–50 GT. Those are the published numbers, not our receipts. The steps are on the clearing-in guide.

Why we loved El Salvador so much From Some Tuesday

El Salvador is a hidden gem. Nobody really knows what an amazing place it is. Go there now and it’s beautiful, affordable, and safe, with lots of culture and heritage, everything from the city of San Salvador to the mountains, the volcano, and the beaches. An absolutely incredible country that happens to be about the size of Delaware. It’s worth the stop.

The country has everything. San Salvador has a cosmopolitan scene, high-end shopping, and fancy restaurants. Then there is a beautiful coastline and beaches, the huge peaceful estuary at Bahía del Sol, and mountains and volcanoes. The estuary is in Bahía del Sol. The volcano day is in A lifelong friend.

A wall hanging of President Bukele, with more Bukele pictures on the wall behind it — Bukele artwork and tchotchkes were everywhere. He really is as popular here as they say he is.

Heard from Cruisers In 2015 the country had the highest homicide rate in the world. UNODC figures put that year at about 108 homicides for every 100,000 people. That is the year people called it the murder capital of the world.

From Some Tuesday Locals told me the gangs used to run everything, down to walking up in a bar and telling you to buy a round for the table.

Heard from Cruisers A December 2025 CID Gallup poll of 1,200 people found that 90 percent had a positive opinion of President Bukele.

From Some Tuesday I asked dozens of locals. I could not find one who was not enthusiastic. That is my opinion. The days with his family are in A lifelong friend. More of our stay is in the Captain’s Log.

Don’t fear the sandbar: it’s worth the crossing From Some Tuesday

Many people skip El Salvador because they’re scared of the sand bar, or worried the facilities are old. That’s a big mistake. The country is amazing and the process is easy, as long as you’re in touch with Bill. Contact Bill through the Bahía del Sol rally site.

The entrance is a sand bar at the mouth of the estuary. Plan on a wait. I sailed around in circles for about five hours. Read the full story in the Captain’s Log.

Bill arranges the pilot boat. He rides on it. He also helps with a hotel slip or a mooring. He’s a wealth of information, and he’s the person to reach before you leave your last port. We paid about US$50 for the pilot in March 2026. Confirm the current rate with him. The hotel, the pool, and pupusa night are in Bahía del Sol.

Homecoming for First Mate Meg From Some Tuesday

Meghan flew home from Acapulco in February for back surgery. I then sailed alone from Acapulco to El Salvador, about 700 nautical miles. Meghan flew back to El Salvador for a homecoming.

A banner on the side of the boat reading Welcome home First Mate Meg — The sign on the side of the boat: Welcome home First Mate Meg.

Steve at the airport terminal, holding a welcome sign — Picking Meghan up at the airport when she came home.

Watch the video: E7, Meghan’s homecoming in El Salvador after spinal surgery.

Read the full story in the Captain’s Log: the solo sail from Chiapas to Bahía del Sol, arriving at Bahía del Sol, and our time in El Salvador. She flew home from Acapulco.

Bahía del Sol From Some Tuesday

Bahía del Sol is where yachts check in. Immigration and the Coast Guard are at Hotel Bahía del Sol. The marina restaurant is great, beers are a dollar, and the marina itself is affordable.

A seafood platter on a table, with boats in the marina beyond the railing — Dinner at the marina restaurant, looking over the boats.

A person in the hotel pool holding a red drink, with palm trees behind — A drink in the hotel pool.

Bill and Jean run a whole little hospitality business there. Once a week they have everybody over to their home for pupusa night: enjoy the pool and order pupusas. A really fun event. A neighbor makes them, you bring your own drinks, and they were 75 cents. They also rent moorings that are very affordable. Meghan and I chose to stay at the marina hotel because it was affordable. The moorings are even cheaper. Bill was so helpful the whole time we were there.

Bill, First Mate Meg, and Captain Steve on deck at the marina, left to right — Bill, First Mate Meg and Captain Steve, just moments before we cast off from the dock to cross the Pacific Ocean (April 2).

We cast off on 2 April 2026 and followed Bill out. Read the full story in the Captain’s Log.

Meghan and Steve in the dinghy, with a gorgeous El Salvador sunset behind them — Meghan and me in the dinghy, with a gorgeous El Salvador sunset behind us.

Some Tuesday at night, tied to the dock at the Bahía del Sol marina, seen from the resort restaurant — Some Tuesday at night at the dock at the Bahía del Sol marina, taken from the resort restaurant next door.

Two pugs on the deck beside the hotel pool, with palms behind them — The pugs by the hotel pool. Pretty much the last time they walked on land, since none of the South Pacific islands allow them ashore.

Colorful letters spelling Bahía del Sol on the beach at night — The Bahía del Sol sign on the beach at night.

Sunset over the marina at Bahía del Sol, boat masts against an orange sky — Sunset over the marina.

On the marina dock at sunset. Left to right: Gabe, First Mate Meg, Captain Steve and Herbert.

The estuary is huge and peaceful. The small working boats are called "pangas" and are ubiquitous.

Pangas with outboards on the green water of the estuary, palms along the shore — Pangas on the Jaltepeque estuary.

President Bukele reposted our silly video - and it went viral! From Some Tuesday

Lots of wake in the marina. Local boats race by constantly, and nobody respects the no-wake zone.

The president reposted it on TikTok. Yes! THAT president. As in, the president of the entire country!!! Quite an honor. After that, local boats slowed down and drove by taking photos of Some Tuesday. We had already met Herbert from the video, before the repost.

Watch the video.

The post President Bukele reposted.

Stocking the boat From Some Tuesday

We stayed alongside the whole visit. Before the Pacific I filled the tanks, changed the oil and filters, and had the bottom cleaned. The day before we left I did a long provisioning run in San Salvador. Read the full story in the Captain’s Log.

The road between San Salvador and Bahía del Sol runs through Costa del Sol. We drove it several times.

A man on a motorcycle with a huge basket strapped on the back, on a road — Unconventional modes of transportation are common in El Salvador. This motorcycle had a giant basket on the back, on the road we took several times between San Salvador and Bahía del Sol.

Pat flew down on a few days’ notice From Some Tuesday

Pat is one of my best friends and my favorite tennis buddy back home, and he and his wife Missy are some of our closest friends. While Meghan was home for surgery, Pat and Missy were right there helping her, so Pat knew EXACTLY how alone I was down in El Salvador. We got to talking and agreed he should come visit. A few days later he was on a plane!

We had a blast. We chilled by the pool and explored El Salvador. We buzzed all over the estuary in the dinghy, hitting every restaurant we could reach by water (and there are more than you’d think!).

Pat and Captain Steve in the hotel pool at Bahía del Sol.

Pat, Captain Steve, and the driver they hired, standing in a plaza with the cathedral behind them — Pat, Steve and our driver for the day on the plaza by the cathedral, San Salvador.

A colorful mural on a wall along a San Salvador street — Street art in San Salvador.

I was sad to see him go home. But Meghan was coming back just a couple of days later, and I had a boat to get ready! Thanks, Pat. That trip meant more than you know. :-)

A lifelong friend From Some Tuesday

After we posted the wake video, and before President Bukele reposted it, Herbert Esmahan sent a message on TikTok, welcoming us. He was so friendly and outgoing that I wondered if it was an impersonator!! 😊 It was sincere. His family came here in the 1930s. He is often on television for President Bukele’s policies, and I hope he runs for congress some day - he would be an asset to El Salvador!

Jackie, his mom, his aunt, and his cousin Gabe took us around over two days. Wednesday evening, 25 March 2026, we had dinner at Restaurante El Ático in Planes de Renderos, with the lights of San Salvador below.

Dinner at a table with Herbert, Jackie, Meghan, Steve, and Jackie's dog Rodolfo, city lights below the restaurant — Dinner with Herbert, his mom Jackie, First Mate Meg, Captain Steve, and Jackie’s dog Rodolfo at Restaurante El Ático, Planes de Renderos.

Meghan and Steve standing in a restaurant, with the lights of San Salvador spread out below them — First Mate Meg and Captain Steve standing in a restaurant, with the lights of San Salvador below. Restaurante El Ático, Planes de Renderos.

Then the historic center at night, on Plaza Gerardo Barrios: Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Nacional, and a street near Galería Central. We had drinks on a rooftop facing the cathedral.

Captain Steve, Jackie, First Mate Meg, and Herbert standing in front of Palacio Nacional at night, left to right — In front of Palacio Nacional, left to right: Captain Steve, Jackie, First Mate Meg, and Herbert.

The illuminated Catedral Metropolitana on Plaza Gerardo Barrios in San Salvador at night — Catedral Metropolitana on Plaza Gerardo Barrios, San Salvador, on the night tour with Herbert and his family.

Herbert, First Mate Meg, and Captain Steve, left to right, with drinks on a rooftop bar across from the Metropolitan Cathedral in downtown San Salvador — Nightcaps with Herbert on a rooftop bar across from the Metropolitan Cathedral, downtown San Salvador. From left: Herbert, First Mate Meg and Captain Steve.

Thursday, 26 March 2026, on the way up the volcano, we stopped at Picnic Steak House, Calle al Boquerón km 16 in Santa Tecla. It is a restaurant and fun park with a giant 120 m rainbow slide. Meghan played the piano there.

Steve and Meghan sitting on a giant rainbow chair at Picnic Steak House — Steve and Meghan on the giant rainbow chair at Picnic Steak House, Calle al Boquerón km 16, Santa Tecla, the fun park with the 120 m rainbow slide.

Then El Boquerón National Park, at Mirador 1. El Boquerón is the crater of San Salvador Volcano, Quetzaltepec. The small cone inside is Boqueroncito. There has been no real lake since 1917. A little water shows on the crater floor.

The crater of El Boquerón on San Salvador Volcano, from Mirador 1, with the small inner cone Boqueroncito and a little water on the crater floor — El Boquerón, the crater of San Salvador Volcano, from Mirador 1. The small cone is Boqueroncito, and a little water shows on the crater floor.

First Mate Meg on the trail at Mirador 1, El Boquerón, with the crater rim of San Salvador Volcano behind her — First Mate Meg on the trail at Mirador 1, El Boquerón National Park, on San Salvador Volcano.

That evening we had dinner at La Guitarra, a beach restaurant in El Tunco, a short drive from Bitcoin Beach (El Zonte).

Jackie, Captain Steve, First Mate Meg, Herbert, and Dani, left to right, at an outdoor table at La Guitarra in El Tunco — Jackie (Herbert’s mom), Captain Steve, First Mate Meg, Herbert, and Dani at La Guitarra in El Tunco, a short drive from Bitcoin Beach (El Zonte).

Herbert and his cousin Gabe came down to the boat for the day. He brought the pirate hats.

Captain Steve, left, and Herbert in pirate hats on the boat — Pirate hats aboard at Bahía del Sol. Captain Steve, left, and Herbert.

A chance meeting online led to a lifelong friendship. Jackie and the family welcomed us like they had known us for 40 years. Read the full story of how we met in the Captain’s Log.

In this country

Bahía del Sol: the bar, the pilot, and the hotel dock.
Clearing in on this page, and the clearing-in guide: no forms ahead of time, the Coast Guard permit, the zarpe, and the CA-4 stay.
Forms tool: answer sheets only for Migración F-44, if you need a stay extension, and the MAG pet application. Check-in itself doesn’t use either one.

Heard from Cruisers

Most of this circulates by word of mouth among cruisers. We pulled it together, organized it, and share it free. It is not official guidance, so don’t rely on it as such.

How long the boat can stay Heard from Cruisers

The Coast Guard permit runs to 90 days, in 30-day blocks at US$30 each. Another figure is that you can leave the boat as long as you wish, with the fees paid in 30-day blocks. Ask the Port Captain before you plan a long stay.

The old tourist card Heard from Cruisers

The US$12 tourist card was abolished on 30 April 2025. A visitor page still lists US$12 for a 90-day stay.

From Some Tuesday We don’t remember what, if anything, we paid.

CA-4 days Heard from Cruisers

Time granted in Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, or Nicaragua is shared across the four. Another account is that the shared 90 days apply only to land travel, and that arriving on your own boat starts a new stay. Assume the days carry over unless an officer tells you otherwise in writing.

The bar Heard from Cruisers

The bar is about three quarters of a mile outside the estuary, average depth around 12 ft, and the channel moves during the year. November to February is usually tame. Summer southern swells make it rougher. Outboard-powered boats should not attempt it. Following the pilot does not guarantee a safe entry. In March 2024 a boat drawing about 6 ft 9 in went hard aground on the bar, lost its keel and rudder, and was a total loss.

If you are late for the tide, anchor west of the entrance in 35 ft or more, about a mile off, outside the surf zone, and wait. Before the crossing: run the engine hard for five minutes, check steering and throttle, secure everything, close hatches, everyone on deck, and a VHF in the cockpit. Radios along this coast are set to US channels. The pilot waits for a lull, then calls for full throttle. If a wave picks the boat up, keep it perpendicular to the waves. Don’t turn around unless the pilot clearly says to. After the bar, the docks are very low, so get the fenders down.

Pilot fee Heard from Cruisers

One figure is US$25 each way, with the hotel waiving the exit fee after a long enough stay in the marina. Another is US$50 each way, or US$50 for both ways with a week at the marina. Confirm the current rate with Bill on the rally contact page.

From Some Tuesday We paid about US$50.

The marina Heard from Cruisers

A published marina rate is about US$0.80 a foot a day, with lower weekly and monthly rates. The water is not potable. Moorings run about US$150 a month. A cruisers’ club, with the pool and showers, is about US$15 to US$20 a week. Anchoring in the estuary is good holding, with a tidal current of 2 to 3.5 knots. Groceries are in La Herradura, about a 4-mile dinghy ride.

From Some Tuesday We don’t remember what we paid for a berth.

Calling in Heard from Cruisers

About an hour out, call Hotel Bahía del Sol on VHF 16 and ask for the pilot. The hotel email is recepcion.hotel@bahiadelsolelsalvador.com. El Salvador stays on Central Standard Time all year, UTC−6.

Questions